20 Years After The Tsunami: What to See, Do, and Taste in Aceh, Indonesia That You Don’t Wanna Miss

Imagine standing in a city that has been through the unthinkable—waves as tall as a ten-story building tearing through its streets, leaving devastation in its wake. That was Banda Aceh, Indonesia, twenty years ago. On 26 Dec 2004, at 7:59am local time, a magnitude 9.1 undersea earthquake struck 240 kilometres west of Sumatra. The earthquake ruptured a fault line stretching an astonishing 1,500 kilometres, releasing energy equivalent to 23,000 atomic bombs.

The resulting tsunami sped across the Indian Ocean at 800 kilometres per hour, destroying more than a dozen countries. But it was Aceh, particularly its capital Banda Aceh, that bore the brunt of this calamity. With waves reaching heights of 20 to 30 meters, over 60% of the city was destroyed, and approximately 61,000 lives—nearly a quarter of its population—were lost. Today, though, Banda Aceh has risen from the waters, its resilience an inspiring story of recovery, culture, and hope.

Image credit: Islamic Reminder _ Official Facebook

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A city reborn

Walking through Banda Aceh today, it’s hard to imagine the scale of the destruction that once scarred this city. The rebuilding effort was monumental. International humanitarian aid poured in, leading to the construction of more than 140,000 homes, along with thousands of kilometres of new roads, bridges, schools, hospitals, and parks. These physical scars healed relatively quickly, but the emotional and mental recovery took far longer. Yet, through their faith, culture, and indomitable spirit, the people of Aceh persevered.

“The transformation has been extraordinary,” says Sam Clark from Experience Travel Group, a UK-based company that recently started offering tours to Banda Aceh. “It’s a testament to the fortitude of the Acehnese people.” Today, Banda Aceh is a place of remembrance and a vibrant destination waiting to be explored.

A gateway to history

Aceh has always been more than just a province of Indonesia; it was once a powerful, independent sultanate that flourished during the 17th century under the reign of Iskandar Muda. Visitors can still see remnants of this golden era in Gunongan, a pleasure garden and bathing area built for Muda’s favourite wife, the Princess of Pahang. According to local lore, its design—a stylised mountain—was meant to ease her homesickness for the highlands of her homeland.

Even before its days as a sultanate, Aceh was significant. In the 13th century, it became the first Muslim stronghold in the Indonesian archipelago. Banda Aceh earned the nickname “Doorway to Mecca” as it served as the final stop for many Asian pilgrims heading to Arabia for hajj. The city’s iconic Baiturrahman Grand Mosque, which miraculously survived the tsunami, is a testament to this rich spiritual heritage. Open to visitors of all faiths, the mosque is more than a place of worship; it’s a symbol of survival. In the immediate aftermath of the disaster, it served as a shelter for survivors and a temporary morgue for those who did not make it.

Image credit: detik travel | Official Website

Honouring the past

Banda Aceh’s tsunami memorials are poignant reminders of the tragedy. Siron Tsunami Memorial Park is the largest mass grave in the city, where 46,718 unidentified victims rest. A commemorative sculpture of advancing waves bears an Arabic inscription that reads, “Be, and it is,” a reflection on the power of God’s will.

Image credit: Alesha Aransa & Aceh Vibes | Official Facebook

Must-visit attractions and local cuisines

Visitors to this extraordinary destination are met with an array of must-visit sites and tantalizing dishes that reflect Aceh’s unique history and heritage.

One of Aceh’s most iconic landmarks is the Baiturrahman Grand Mosque, a symbol of the region's deep-rooted Islamic culture. With its stunning architecture featuring seven domes and a vast prayer hall capable of accommodating up to 9,000 worshippers, the mosque stands as a testament to the architectural brilliance of Aceh. Another significant cultural site is the Aceh Tsunami Museum, which serves as both a memorial to the 2004 tsunami and an educational centre for disaster preparedness. Its design and exhibits poignantly narrate the region’s resilience in the face of one of history’s most devastating natural disasters.

For those seeking a connection with nature, Weh Island (Pulau Weh) offers a tranquil escape. This volcanic island is a haven for divers and snorkelers, with its crystal-clear waters and vibrant marine life. Nearby, Lampuuk Beach impresses with its pristine white sands and turquoise waters, providing an idyllic setting for surfing, swimming, and watching spectacular sunsets.

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Nature enthusiasts will also find wonder in Gunung Leuser National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its lush rainforests and diverse wildlife, including the critically endangered Sumatran orangutans. In the quiet village of Ketambe, visitors can embark on jungle trekking adventures and experience the pristine wilderness up close. For those who enjoy coastal tranquillity, Lhoknga Beach offers a peaceful retreat with surf-friendly waves and picturesque landscapes near Banda Aceh.

Aceh’s culinary scene is equally captivating, offering dishes that showcase the region’s rich flavours. Mie Aceh, a spicy noodle dish infused with a medley of spices and served with beef, lamb, or seafood, is a must-try. Another popular delicacy is Sate Matang, marinated meat skewers grilled to perfection and paired with a savoury peanut sauce and broth. The region's signature fried chicken dish, Ayam Tangkap, stands out with its unique preparation, incorporating aromatic leaves for added flavour. For those with a penchant for Malay-Indian-inspired dishes, Roti Jala with Kari Ayam—net-shaped crepes paired with spicy chicken curry—offers a delightful fusion of textures and tastes. A meal in Aceh is incomplete without savouring Kopi Sanger, a rich coffee beverage made with espresso and sweetened condensed milk, reflecting the region’s love for robust and aromatic flavours.

Aceh’s combination of stunning natural landscapes, significant cultural landmarks, and a vibrant culinary scene ensures a memorable experience for every traveller. Whether exploring its historic sites, marvelling at its natural wonders, or indulging in its flavourful cuisine, Aceh offers an unforgettable journey into the heart of Indonesia’s heritage.

Image credit: Finna Food, OSC Media, cookpad.com, Tribun Kaltim | Official Website

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A call to adventure

For travellers seeking a destination off the beaten path, Banda Aceh offers a mix of history, culture, and natural beauty. From the rainforests of Gunung Leuser National Park, home to critically endangered orangutans, to the crystal-clear waters of Weh Island’s snorkelling and dive sites, the wider Aceh province is a haven for adventure seekers. Add to this the coffee-growing Gayo Highlands and the moving tsunami memorials, and you have a destination that promises both reflection and discovery. Twenty years after the tsunami, Banda Aceh stands as a testament to human resilience. It’s a city that has not only rebuilt itself but also redefined its identity. For those willing to explore its depths, Banda Aceh offers a journey into the heart of recovery, culture, and hope—a place where history and modern life intertwine seamlessly.